Proof that the undercoat is versatile – Part 2

Here’s an email from a colleague – Tom – who lives and works in Michigan:


Hello Gentlemen, 

Received your video on the stenciling technique and really liked it.

I do some stencilling in my own restoration and repair work.

And, fifty years ago, when an old local German studio closed their doors, I was able to rescue a lot of tools they left behind.

This studio had been in business here since 1861 – there was a big collection of old stencils:

  • These originals were mainly made of sheet brass.
  • Some had hinges attached to help with production.
  • There were a few stencils made from zinc.
  • And the most recent were made from heavy paper.

That was my introduction to the stencilling technique.

I’ve recently considered organising these stencils into an archive to make them more accessible.

You might ask, how many do you have? – I’ve never counted but there’s a lot of them.

I’ve been able to roughly sort them by size and uses:

  • There are small rosette-type patterns.
  • And floral border/edge designs.
  • And also larger “field-styled” pieces.

I believe many of the brass and zinc sheets are acid-etched. 

The other experience I gained from this early adventure was the technique itself: the whole building was unbelievable dirty with glass paint powder.

  1. As your video shows, the stencil was placed on top of a dried layer of paint.
  2. It was then brushed with a scrub to remove the paint exposed through the stencil.

So this is the opposite of the contemporary silkscreen technique where the paint is applied through the screen. 

There was no ventilation system … a casual stroll through the building would guarantee a nose-full of black dust.

I currently use a bench-top air filtration unit with a changeable filter: I can send you a photo of my set-up which show the need for this precaution. 

If you’re interested I can also share a few pictures of some of these ancient stencils, along with a few pieces of the glass created with them. 

Thanks for your time. Keep sharing the knowledge. The rewards from sharing are every bit as good as successfully completing a stained glass project.

Regards, 
Tom


Hello Tom,

We’re always glad to hear from you. 

And yes we’d love some photos – of your set-up and also of some stencils: would you be OK if we posted these, with your name, on the blog? – Your words are fascinating and will be very helpful to many people. 

Best wishes always from us,
Stephen


Good morning, Stephen,

First, a picture of a stencilled window I collected from the old German studio. I do believe it was used for display and an example of their work:

Next, a picture of the bench-top air filter I use. It sits at the end of of my light table.

Note the colour of the once-white filter. That filter is regularly changed, depending on the amount of stencilling being done. You can actually see the dust being pulled into it

Here’s a repair and restoration project that is about to be completed, starting with a single piece of the original stencilled glass:

Here’s a matching stencil made with stencil paper:

Here’s the completed window panel and border with all pieces painted and stencilled:

And here’s an assortment of the old brass stencils:

Thanks for letting me share this piece of local history.

Tom


Tom – thank you. This is wonderful. Your story and photographs are so helpful to us and to our colleagues / readers across the world. Thank you.

Best,
Stephen

Have a question? Ask it here!

11
Joseph -

My brain and hands hurt thinking of all that fret saw work to produce such fine detailed stencils. Thank you so much for sharing with us. I'm always looking for honest history about our art. This shows the myriad skills we must cultivate to produce work that sets us apart.

Rebekah Ross -

Folks can make their own stencils with a device called a Cricut Cutter. I have used my Cricut Cutter Explorer (about $230 on Amazon) both for making stencils on a stiff stencil paper and on contact paper, which sticks onto the glass and then peels off. I have used both the scratching away method and applying paint with a sponge brush through the holes in the stencils. It's fun, and you can do fairly complex designs (such as brocade for a Victorian dress), but there is a bit of a learning curve.

For a Cricut cutter to work, the design must be in vector format. This is because the blade has to follow the line that is programmed into it and doesn't undertand the little pixels of regular graphics you have on your computer. This is the format of Adobe Illustrator. Because that program is pricey, I use another vector program called Graphic, which is cheaper but doesn't have all the bells and whistles of Illustrator, and doesn't easily convert graphics into vector form. You can input images that are already in vector form into that program, and then send them to your Cricut Cutter to print out on stencil paper.

There are some nice traditional stained glass designs already in vector format here:
http://www.alfredom.com/ashop/424.htm

But they might require some tweaking to put into your Cricut Cutter, because you want to choose only the black lines for your stencil, and will have to delete all the color parts. But it's doable if you like working on a computer.

There are many other sites to get vector images to make stencils from. The only thing to remember is that for a stencil to work, everything must connect. Think of stencil letters. The dots in the middle of the P or R would fall out, so when they make stencil letters they have to make little connectors. The other option if you don't like this limitation is to make a silkscreen. (But of course with silkscreen you can only ADD paint, you can't scratch away as you can with a stencil).

Steve Voita -

You can easily copy or make your own stencils by using a water-jet on aluminium. Scan a design or create your own, then save as a Vector file. Here are some patterns made with the water-jet: thickness can vary and material used but the results are the same:

Stencils

And:

Stencils

You can also water-jet the glass if need be:

Glass

And:

Glass

And:

Glass

Next, an entire frame that has been water-jetted for a large window I'm making. There are three pieces that sandwich the glass with a 1/8th overlap, then all is bolted together. No lead, and totally able to handle the load of glass once installed:

Frame

This system allows the glass artist to concentrate more on the art and design, less on the construction portion of the window.

Thanks for reading this.

Steve

mary jewell -

I wonder if Tom (from Michigan) had bought some of the stained glass patterns and things from the old Jacoby Stained Glass company that was in St. Louis, and had been there for many years. I saw one of the huge religious patterns in a stained glass company in Maryland a number of years ago. I was fascinated because my family name was Jacoby (though we are not related to my knowledge). I love the work of the old masters and how the glasspainters today are keeping it alive.

Tom from Michigan -

Hi Mary J., Enjoyed your note on the stencils. Have a little info on the Jacoby Studio in St. Louis. It seems like there was always some sort of contact between the old studios. Mainly by the employee. They would switch companies and sometimes the studios would coordinated their efforts on a projects. The Detroit Stained Glass Works was established in 1861 and the Jacoby Studios was started in 1896. I have an old maquette (design drawing) signed as "Designed by L. Jacoby, Detroit" and dated 1895. I have a photo of it but not sure how to get a copy to you. Noting that the Jacoby studio was started 35 years after the Detroit studio and the old drawing info, it might indicate that the Jacoby people might have been influenced by the Detroit glass group. So the question is, who was L. Jacoby? This person has not been mentioned with the records of the Jacoby studio.
This history and the stories keeps me involved. I'm still in touch with member of the original families of the studio and will ask about questions when we get together.

Fiona Hunt -

Really interesting to read your story Tom & see the old German Stenciled Windows & Stencils. Thank you for sharing Stephen, David & Tom.

Tom from Michigan -

A response for Joseph. The history is also a big part of the art for me as well. The old studio was a once in a life time opportunity. Artifacts rescued and stored for fifty year are still being utilized today. Recently we were able to reuse a cartoon from 1938 for a new installation in a historic church. The old design was in the style appropriate and in harmony with the existing windows. It's always amazing while doing restoration work to notice the expert skills and techniques that the artist and craft persons utilized without the tools of today. Glad you enjoyed it, and Thanks

Tom in Michigan -

Hi Rebekah, Like your notes. It's kind of Stained Glass meets Hi-Tech. The paper stencil shown was done with a vector drawing and cut on a special printer. Didn't mention it in an effort to keep it simple and traditional. So thank you. The victor drawing was done on the program Inkscape. Think you'll like the price on this one, free. And thanks for the early design reference. Can never find enough of that.
You mentioned the "little connectors". Think I remember someone calling them "bridges". Seems Steve shows a few bridges in a couple of his water-jet stencils.
Thanks for keeping us up to date and digital.

Steve Voita -

Here's a fast step: for my borders (over 100ft of them, so hand-painting was out of the question) I laser-cut a 1/8 inch Plex-cut stencil with a 50,000 volt laser, then airbrushed with the Paasche Talon and Reusche Tracing Black.

You need your drawing scanned and made into a Vector file: anything you can imagine can be cut to the finest detail.

Laser-cut stencil

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